Qalamkari (Textile Calico Printing) – An Art Born of Weathered Hands and Nature’s Canvas

Calico Kalamkari or Textile Calico Printing is a traditional and authentic Iranian art rooted in the country’s rich history and culture. This art flourished during the Safavid and Qajar periods and is still practiced today with special precision and delicacy in cities like Isfahan and other regions of Iran. In this article, we will explore the history, process, and applications of Calico Kalamkari.

History of Kalamkari

The art of Kalamkari dates back to ancient times, with evidence of its use found in the Sassanid and even Achaemenid periods. During these eras, Iranians used various techniques, including hand painting, to decorate their fabrics. However, this art reached its peak during the Safavid and Qajar periods. During this time, with royal patronage, the art of Kalamkari became widely popular in Iran, and printed fabric productions were highly sought after in both domestic and foreign markets.

Kalamkari: The Process of Printing on Fabric

1. Fabric Preparation

The Kalamkari process begins with fabric preparation. The fabrics are usually made of cotton or linen and must be thoroughly washed to remove contamination and waste materials. Then, they are prepared to create a suitable surface for printing.

2. Design and Block Making

At this stage, various designs are carved onto wooden blocks. These blocks are usually made from hardwoods such as oak or apricot wood. Master craftsmen carefully engrave different designs such as flowers, animals, and mythological patterns onto these blocks.

3. Printing Process

After preparing the blocks, natural dyes extracted from plants, minerals, and other natural materials are prepared. These dyes are then applied to the fabric using the blocks. This stage may be repeated several times until all colors and patterns are created on the fabric.

4. Color Fixing

To fix the colors and prevent them from fading, the fabrics are soaked in special solutions such as pomegranate extract or herbal decoctions for several hours. This stage helps to permanently fix the colors onto the fabric.

Applications of Calico Kalamkari

In the past, Calico Kalamkari was primarily used to create elegant and luxurious clothing for courtiers and nobility. These fabrics were typically used as formal attire, curtains, and various coverings in royal ceremonies and celebrations. However, today this art is widely used in producing various types of fabrics including curtains, tablecloths, men’s and women’s clothing, and even decorative items.

Unique Characteristics of Calico Kalamkari

One of the special features of Calico Kalamkari is the use of natural dyes that give it vibrant and durable colors. Additionally, the printing process using wooden blocks ensures that each fabric has a unique and special design. This art, while preserving traditional methods and techniques, is constantly evolving and innovating.

Isfahan’s Role in Kalamkari  Art

Isfahan is recognized as one of the important and central cities for Calico Kalamkari art in Iran. This city, with its skilled master craftsmen and numerous production workshops, has been recognized as the main center for producing this art during the Safavid period and even today. Many Isfahan artists currently continue to produce this art by hand in their workshops and offer their works to domestic and foreign markets.

Calico Kalamkari  in Today’s World

Despite the growth of modern industries and changes in the world of fabric production, Calico Kalamkari remains one of the popular and respected arts in the fashion and decoration industry. Today, this art is used not only in clothing and household fabrics but also in modern designs and interior decorations. Fashion manufacturers and interior designers use this art to create artistic and unique works in their products.

Conclusion

Calico Kalamkari, with its rich history spanning several millennia, remains one of the most prominent Iranian arts. This art, combining handmade skills and the use of natural dyes, continues to hold a special place in the world of fashion and decoration. Preserving and promoting this art not only helps preserve Iran’s cultural heritage but has also found its place as an artistic industry in the modern world.